Kërnace Zgare Fatosi

Kernace are the short, hand-shaped minced-meat rolls of the Korca region, and at Fatosi they are the whole point: cooked over embers and served with bread, raw…Kernace are the short, hand-shaped minced-meat rolls of the Korca region, and at Fatosi they are the whole point: cooked over embers and served with bread, raw onion and a spoon of tzatziki. Paidhaqe, ribs of suckling pig, and panine fill out the rest of the grate.

It operates from a pair of spots, one at Avni Rustemi square inside Pazari i Ri and one in the wholesale electrical goods district, both open to the street with the smoke visible from the pavement. Plates are cheap even by Tirana standards and the room turns fast, so it works better as a lunch stop or an early evening than a long dinner. A car can be sent for customers who ask.