Tirana Traditional

Traditional Albanian cooking is built on yoghurt, peppers, lamb and bread. The dishes you will see most often are tave kosi, lamb baked under a yoghurt and egg crust, and fergese, peppers and cottage cheese cooked in a clay dish. Byrek, a layered savoury pastry, is eaten at any hour. Qofte, small grilled meat patties, come with raw onion and bread.

Pazari i Ri holds the highest concentration of these kitchens, several of them long-running family rooms. A newer group in and around Blloku treats the same repertoire as slow food, sourcing regionally and writing menus by season. Portions are large and sharing is normal.