Tirana Grill houses

The grill house is Albania's everyday restaurant. Qofte, flattened patties of minced lamb or beef seasoned with oregano, come off the charcoal in batches with raw onion, bread and a bowl of yoghurt. Skewered lamb, sausages and offal fill out the rest of the counter.

These places are informal and fast, most of them open to the street with the grill visible from the pavement. The concentration is heaviest around Pazari i Ri and along the avenues running out from the centre, where they serve workers at lunch and stay busy again after dark. A full plate with bread and salad costs very little.